Criccieth Castle: Llywelyn's Coastal Fortress

Criccieth Castle dominates a rocky headland on the Llŷn Peninsula, its dramatic ruins commanding views across Cardigan Bay. Built by Llywelyn the Great in the 1230s and later captured and modified by Edward I, this strategic fortress witnessed the rise and fall of Welsh independence. The castle is haunted by the spirit of its founder, Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, along with the ghosts of Welsh and English soldiers who fought for control of this commanding position.

Llywelyn the Great’s Castle

Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, known as Llywelyn the Great, established Criccieth Castle around 1230 as part of his consolidation of power in North Wales. Unlike Edward I’s later castles built to suppress Wales, Criccieth was a Welsh-built fortress, a symbol of native Welsh power during Llywelyn’s reign as de facto Prince of Wales. The castle’s distinctive twin-towered gatehouse and commanding position reflected Welsh military sophistication before the English conquest.

Llywelyn died in 1240 at Aberconwy Abbey, but his spirit is said to return to Criccieth, one of his proudest achievements. His presence represents the last era of truly independent Welsh power before his grandson Llywelyn ap Gruffudd’s defeat and death in 1282 led to English domination.

The Ghost of Llywelyn the Great

The most significant haunting at Criccieth is the apparition of Llywelyn ap Iorwerth himself, appearing as a commanding figure in princely robes and mail armor. Witnesses describe him walking the battlements of the gatehouse and inner ward, surveying his castle and the surrounding countryside as he would have done in life. His presence is described as powerful and authoritative, a ruler inspecting his domain even in death.

The ghost appears most frequently on stormy nights when wind and rain lash the castle ruins. Multiple visitors have reported seeing a tall, imposing figure standing on the walls, seemingly unbothered by the weather, looking out toward Snowdonia and the lands Llywelyn once ruled. When witnesses approach or try to photograph the figure, it fades into the stonework, as if absorbed back into the castle itself.

Llywelyn’s presence is said to be protective rather than threatening, as if the prince’s spirit continues to guard the fortress he built. Some local legends suggest his ghost appears when Wales or the Welsh language faces particular threats, a supernatural guardian of Welsh identity and independence.

The Fall of Criccieth

After Llywelyn the Great’s death, the castle remained in Welsh hands under his descendants until 1283, when it fell to Edward I during his conquest of Wales. Edward strengthened the castle’s defenses, adding English-style modifications to the Welsh structure. The capture of Criccieth was a significant blow to Welsh resistance, and the trauma of the castle’s fall appears to have left psychic scars.

In 1404, during Owain Glyndŵr’s rebellion against English rule, Welsh forces attacked Criccieth. The castle was burned and severely damaged, never to be fully restored. This final destruction in the cause of Welsh independence adds another layer to the castle’s haunted history.

The Phantom Soldiers

Numerous witnesses report seeing ghostly soldiers on the castle walls and in the ruined chambers. These apparitions appear in two distinct groups, suggesting different historical periods:

Welsh Defenders: Soldiers in 13th-century Welsh military dress, armed with spears, bows, and swords. They appear to be on watch or patrol, maintaining guard over the castle. These spirits may be Llywelyn’s original garrison, still performing their duties centuries after their deaths. They are most commonly seen in the inner ward and near the distinctive gatehouse that was the castle’s Welsh-built heart.

English Garrison: Men in Edward I’s livery, representing the English forces that occupied the castle after 1283. These soldiers appear in the outer defenses and modified portions of the castle. Their presence is often described as more aggressive or watchful than the Welsh defenders, reflecting the occupying force’s vigilance in hostile territory.

The two groups of spirits seem unaware of each other, suggesting residual hauntings replaying different historical periods rather than conscious ghosts interacting.

Sounds of Battle

The castle’s violent history manifests in audio phenomena. Visitors frequently report hearing:

• The clash of weapons on stone and metal
• Battle cries and shouts in Welsh and English
• The crackle and roar of flames (from the 1404 burning)
• Running footsteps, as if soldiers rushing to defensive positions
• War horns or trumpets signaling alarm

These sounds are most commonly reported during winter storms, when wind and rain create atmospheric conditions similar to medieval siege warfare. The acoustic properties of the ruined walls may amplify these phenomena, or the stormy weather may trigger residual psychic impressions of the castle’s most traumatic moments.

The Burning

The 1404 burning of Criccieth during Glyndŵr’s rebellion left particularly strong paranormal impressions. Visitors in certain parts of the castle report:

• The smell of smoke when no fires are burning
• Sudden intense heat in cold weather
• The sensation of flames, though nothing is visible
• A sense of chaos and desperation
• Orange or red light anomalies that move like flames

These phenomena are concentrated in areas where the burning would have been most intense. Some researchers suggest these are classic signs of a traumatic event imprinted on a location—a psychic recording of the castle’s final military destruction.

The Coastal Setting

Criccieth’s position on a headland overlooking Cardigan Bay contributes to its atmospheric qualities. The castle stands isolated on its rocky promontory, surrounded by sea on three sides and subjected to fierce coastal weather. Mist rolling in from the bay often shrouds the ruins in atmospheric conditions that seem to thin the boundary between past and present.

The sound of wind through the ruined walls creates an eerie backdrop that witnesses often describe as sounding like voices or lamentations. The castle’s exposure to the elements may enhance its supernatural reputation, as visitors experiencing disorienting weather effects may be more susceptible to paranormal experiences or more likely to interpret natural phenomena as supernatural.

Modern Paranormal Activity

Contemporary reports from visitors and Cadw staff include:

• Apparitions of armed men on the walls
• The figure of a noble or royal personage in the gatehouse
• Unexplained footsteps in empty ruins
• The sensation of being watched from the towers
• Electronic equipment malfunctioning, particularly cameras and phones
• Sudden temperature changes in specific locations
• Photographs capturing unexplained figures or light anomalies

The consistency of reports over decades, with witnesses independently describing similar phenomena in the same locations, supports the castle’s haunted reputation.

A Symbol of Welsh Identity

Criccieth Castle’s hauntings carry particular cultural significance. Built by Llywelyn the Great during Wales’ last period of true independence, captured by English conquest, and burned by Glyndŵr’s rebellion, the castle embodies the tragic arc of medieval Welsh history. The ghost of Llywelyn walking his battlements becomes a powerful symbol—the spirit of Welsh independence that refuses to fade despite centuries of English domination.

Whether the phenomena at Criccieth represent genuine spirits, psychic impressions of traumatic historical events, or the power of place and story to affect human perception, the castle remains one of Wales’ most evocative ruins. Standing on its headland, battered by coastal winds, its ancient walls still seem to echo with the voices of those who built, defended, and destroyed it—voices that some claim can still be heard on stormy nights when the past draws close to the present.